BUENOS AIRES MARKETS

One of the unexpected pleasures of wandering around the streets of Buenos Aires is stumbling on a market (feria). There are the usual suspects that draw crowds of tourists but also local markets that pop up in parks and plazas with vendors touting everything from unique local handcrafts to items that bring to mind the saying ‘one man’s rubbish is another man’s treasure’. The handcrafts of Buenos Aires are plentiful and varied, possibly a symptom of the economic crash of 2001 which left the country in a state of turmoil pushing people into creating their own job. Market stalls vary from the official professional set ups to opportunists who have simply spread a blanket on the ground to capitalise on the passing traffic. It’s easy when you are new to the city to miss the best markets. So for travellers who are short on time here are the city’s five top ferias.

Pick up a Bargain at Feria de San Telmo

This is the market most tourists flock to and with good reason. Centred on Plaza Dorrego this huge feria in the heart of historic San Telmo offers literally hundreds of stalls stretching as far as the eye can see down Avenida Defensa. Walking down the cobblestone streets you will discover a plethora of treasures such as coloured crystal glassware, soda siphon bottles, chandeliers, old records, original art works, handmade jewellery, leather goods and vintage Argentine clothing. Street performers including the proverbial tango dancers enthral tourists.

Feria de San Telmo is the must-see market for every visitor to Buenos Aires and be sure to leave a day to explore it properly. When you feel peckish stop for a bite to eat at one of San Telmo’s traditional parillas (steak houses).

At the end of the day once vendors have packed away their wares Plaza Dorrego transforms into an outdoor milonga (tango dance). Take a seat at one of the outside tables at a local bar and enjoy the free show. Best market for: Finding quality handcrafts and antiques as well as seeing a tango show.

When: Every Sunday from 10am – 6pm approximately.

Where: Plaza Dorrego and Avenida Defensa.

Don’t miss: the funky young live tango orchestra El Afronte which plays near Plaza Dorrego in Humberto Primo between Balcarce and Defensa. www.elafronte.com.ar

Experience Gaucho Culture at Feria de Mataderos

Probably because it is located more off the beaten track this market hasn’t gained the same popularity with foreigners that the San Telmo market has, which is all the more reason to go. Feria de Mataderos will give you an insight into the gaucho (cowboy) culture of Argentina without even having to leave the city limits. Feria de Mataderos was started in 1986 to provide a permanent space for cultural shows and displays. Expect to see ponies dressed in sparkling silver livery performing tricks or taking wooden carts full of tourists for a ride. Wandering through the stalls of traditional handcrafts don’t be surprised to witness a spontaneous outbreak of traditional Argentine chacarera folk dancing in the street. Live folk bands often play and there can be performances of gaucho skills. It’s also the best market to sample local food including tamales, humita and pastelitos criollas. It’s a 45 minute bus ride from the city centre in the barrio of Mataderos but well worth venturing off the beaten path.

Best market for: Eating local food and seeing gaucho culture.

When: Sundays from 11am to 7pm. Where: Avenida Lisandro de la Torre and Avenida Eva Peron.

Don’t miss: trying a choripan (local sausage sandwich), often served with chimichurri sauce. For an up to date schedule including performances visit www.feriademataderos.com.ar

Get Down with the Locals at Parque del Centenario

At the markets surrounding Parque del Centenario you will be hard pressed to hear English spoken. But even if you don’t speak Spanish don’t be put off. Parque del Centenario is a great place to hang out for an afternoon and relax Porteño (as the locals are called) style. Wandering round this large circular park with a central pond can provide you with a full day’s entertainment for free. Expect to see skateboarders practising their skills, acrobats dangling from trees, young couples swing dancing, friends sharing mate (the traditional Argentine tea shared from a single cup) and young rock bands performing. The market surrounding the park is distinctive from the others in that it is a flea market and does not offer souvenirs. Pick up a bargain from the second hand items, books, records and just about anything else you can imagine.

Best market for: Mingling with the locals.

When: Sundays from about 10am until 6pm.

Where: Parque del Centenario, corner of Avenidas Diaz Velez and Patricias Argentinas.

Don’t miss: Centenario Metallico, a corner of the park dedicated to local bands performing live concerts.

Shop for handcrafts beneath the trees in Plaza Palermo Viejo and Plaza Serrano

The smaller artisan market surrounding pretty Plaza Palermo Viejo comes complete with a circus carrousel for the kids. The goods are all handcrafted by local artists and designers and include hand painted china, clothing, shoes, jewellery, hand knitted items and more. You can combine a visit to this market with shopping in the upmarket district of Palermo as well as pop in on nearby Plaza Serrano market. More of a tourist draw card, this market is in the popular Palermo Viejo area and although centred on the plaza stretches into the surrounding streets. There are a number of permanent stores in this area where designers hire a section of the store from which to sell their products. This means that any day of the week Plaza Serrano is a great place to come to explore what the latest up and coming Porteño designers have to offer.

Best market for: combining market shopping with retail shopping at Palermo’s exclusive stores.

Where: Plaza Palermo Viejo (corner of Armenia and Costa Rica) and Plaza Serrano (corner of Honduras and Serrano).

When: The outdoor markets can only be visited on Wednesday to Friday and weekends from mid-afternoon until late. The indoor markets surrounding Plaza Serrano are open every day.

Don’t miss: Popping into the boutiques in Palermo as well as checking out the many upmarket restaurants and bars in the area.

Visit the Graveside Market at Cementerio de Recoleta

It may seem strange to combine a bit of shopping with visiting the dead but that’s exactly what you can do at the markets next to the Recoleta cemetery. The feria is said to have started when a group of hippies started to sell their wares in Plaza Francia. Now the market has grown to more than one hundred stalls offering high quality handcrafted products such as original art, jewellery, clothing and souvenir items. After you have finished stop in at the famous cemetery (www.cementariorecoletta.com.ar), which is free to visit, as well as Iglesia del Pilar (www.iglesiadelpilar.com.ar). Nearby is also Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (www.mnba.org.ar).

Best market for: shopping and seeing a major tourist attraction.

Where: Plaza Francia, Avenida Pueyrredón and Del Libertador.

When: Saturday and Sunday.

Don’t miss: visiting the grave of Eva Perón.